Last but not least, The Thrilla in Manila.

The fight in Manila, Philippines, in 1975 was one for the history books. On the line was the heavyweight boxing championship of the world between Joe Frazier and Muhammad Ali, the match known as the "Thrilla in Manila." This marked their third encounter, with each winning one previous bout. It was one of the most brutal boxing contests, and Ali secured victory in the 14th round when Frazier's corner threw in the towel. Unbeknownst to Frazier's corner, Ali had informed his manager, Angelo Dundee, to cut his gloves off as he felt finished and doubted his ability to continue for the 15th round. Despite this, Dundee refused, and Ali won by TKO. The Filipino people took pride in hosting such a historic World Heavyweight Championship fight in their country. Additionally, they celebrated the fact that, as neither the Frazier nor Ali camps could agree on an American referee, a Filipino was chosen to officiate the fight. They named a shopping center after the winner, Ali Mall, which still exists today in Quezon City, a suburb of Manila.

I'm not a history buff, but I'll attempt to summarize the modern history of the Philippines. It began in the late 1500s when the Spanish decided to visit the islands, then over-stayed their welcome by more than 300 years. Named after Philip II of Spain, the Philippines has a population that is over 80% Catholic due to Spanish influence. Despite adopting Catholicism, (in some sense a form of Spanish control); the Filipinos resisted Spanish rule, leading to continual unrest. Instead of leaving with their tail between their legs as losers because they couldn’t control the Filipino uprisings, in 1898, after more than a couple of hundred years, they sold the Philippines to the Americans for $20 million. The Filipinos, desiring independence, waged war against the Americans for a few years. The U.S. then offered assistance to help prepare them for independence, which was granted to the Philippines in 1946. This concludes my attempt at a historical overview and any thoughts about becoming a history buff. 

The Filipinos and Americans fought along side of each other in the Philippine Islands during World War II when the Japanese invaded the islands. We visited the Manila American  Cemetery and Memorial where the Filipinos and allied forces (primarily American) were buried. There are 17,000 marked graves with marble crosses and marble memorial walls of those who were lost but never found or identified. One would think that in this modern day of global interdependence that war would be something that would become obsolete. That would be my hope, anyway, as naïve as that may be. Seeing this cemetery reminds me of the Vietnam Memorial and the loss of so many lives is heartbreaking. Writing in this blog about wars and brutal boxing matches and some sort of human need to prove themselves as better than another is also a little mind boggling. Maybe, some day, humanity will overcome that need  

Manila American Cemetery and Memorial high on a hill in the middle of the city. 

Driving safety in Manila which may not be as dangerous as getting in the ring with a couple of heavyweight fighters is still a perilous endeavor. Driving is like one big game of chicken where 98% of the time everybody wins. However, according to Wikipedia, the city of Manila averages 301 accidents per day, most involving scooters, cars, buses, jeepneys, tricycles and vans.  As you can imagine those brave souls driving the scooters usually come out on the wrong end of these accidents. Keeping a safe driving distance between vehicles here means at lease 12 inches, really, and that might be fudging it a little bit. We rode in a newer model van from the airport to the hotel and it’s my belief that our young driver is a descendant of Richard Petty, the famous NASCAR driver. I decided after renting a scooter almost everywhere else in Asia to forego a scooter in Manila and use public transportation which can be equally as scary but safer.

Unlike other countries that are more stoic in their demeanor, Filipinos seem like they are a happy bunch. They joke and laugh and are generally upbeat. Out in the community, families are the norm. Family first is often heard here when talking with the locals. In the parks, on the street or in the malls you see parents, a couple of kids, and grandmother or father, all together enjoying whatever activity they are involved in. This is the most family oriented country we’ve visited. It’s refreshing to see. 

We are in El Nido on the island of Palawan, Philippines now. Our last stop before we head home. I took an Adanced Open Water PADI course here. Also, a NITROX course so I can use air with a higher percentage of oxygen, which allows for longer dives. The waters here are pretty clear and the environment is still unchanged and beautiful with lots of fish, coral, turtles, etc. It was a rewarding experience. Terry took a course of relaxation by the hotel pool while I was diving and passed with flying colors  

Clear waters of the South China Sea. 

My dive instructor, Win. 

The laid back Island life suits Moon and me. Cheap massages, manicures, pedicures, facials and t-shirts. I stuck to the massages and the t-shirts. We rented a scooter to get around and went into town frequently to eat and enjoy the lively nightlife. A relaxing atmosphere with plenty of time to reflect on our trip and our coming home. 

Last night in El Nido. 

I hope you have enjoyed the blog. Moon and I miss you all and are looking forward to returning home. It’s been a grand trip. 

Ed, out. 

Singapore

In the news: Our travels took us from Bangkok to Vietnam before returning for the New Year’s Extravaganza in Bangkok. Thailand allows Americans and citizens from some other countries to stay visa-free for 30 days, but extending the stay requires complex documentation. As we were on day 29, we had to leave. To manage this, travelers often do a ‘VISA run’ by exiting the country, getting their passports stamped in a nearby neighboring country like Cambodia or Laos, then returning to Thailand, granting another 30-day stay. This can be as easy as entering Laos, having you VISA stamped and walking right back over the Thai border. But our plan was to spend time a week in Vietnam, particularly on the island of Phu Quoc.

Unfortunately, I fell ill a couple of days before heading to Phu Quoc, and upon arrival, I tested positive for an illness. You know the one I speak of. I can tell you what the thread count was in the sheets, pillow cases, and comforter and how many geckos crossed the ceiling each evening but that’s about it for my experience in Vietnam. Terry spent the week repeating the Mantra, “stay away from me”. I tested negative just in time to return to Bangkok. What a trip.   

Our New Year’s night in Bangkok was surreal, spent on the 23rd floor of the Sheraton Hotel by the Chao Phraya River, where the fireworks dazzled us. A spectacular start to the new year. We said our goodbyes to  our friends Maxx, Kay and Aim and headed to Singapore. 

Singapore is a very modern high tech city state at the end of the Malay peninsula and a busy financial and maritime heavyweight. On the west side is the Strait of Malacca, which from the air looks like a busy opening day on the Mountlake Cut in Seattle, but instead of runabouts, sail boats and the occasional 60. foot yacht there are container ships, barges of every kind, cruise ships and tankers. To the south is the Strait of Singapore and to the east is the South China Sea. All in all a bustling shipping area .

Singapore boasts a diverse population - a blend of Singaporean, Indian, Malay, Chinese, and other smaller Asian groups. The official languages here encompass English, Malay, Tamil, and Chinese Mandarin, reflecting the incredible diversity. Religious diversity is also prominent, with Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, and Hinduism coexisting harmoniously. The unusual experience is walking to a predetermined place like Chinatown, but on the way you walk through Muslim town, or a Malay section of the city or other areas where there are different cultures, foods and peoples. 

Singapore, despite being the world’s second most densely populated place, surprisingly offers numerous parks and green spaces. Greenery adorns buildings, medians, malls - virtually every possible spot. 

Each country has its unique way of presenting food and Singapore is no different. For instance, Japan has huge takeout kiosks in the basements of department stores, while Thailand offers street vendors, restaurants of all sizes, and vibrant markets of every kind, day or night. Singapore’s preference is food malls. Good luck finding a place to sit because it’s always busy and there is usually one person sitting at the table warily eyeing anyone who might be thinking a of sitting down. They give you “the eye” as if to say don’t even think about sitting here. The food in Singapore reflects the fusion of all its varied citizenry. We ate at Italian, Greek, and Indian restaurants, each with their take on Asian food. Deliciously decadent. 

I didn’t take many pictures in Singapore, for some reason. It rained quite a bit, which kept things cool. Here’s a picture of Moon in a Shrine 

A raining day visiting the Singapore Art and Science Museum. 

Hope all is well with you in this new year of 2024. 

Ed out. 

  

  

  

 

Bangkok, Part 2

Bangkok, Part 2, is what I’ll call odds and ends. A hodgepodge of observations and musing and thoughts about Bangkok I couldn’t fit in Part 1 but didn’t want to leave out. 

There are markets of every description: wet markets where live eel, fish, crab, frogs, or anything else that swims, crawls, or wiggles through the water can be purchased. Flower markets are amazing with unreal amounts of variety and with a fragrance so enticing it leaves you almost lightheaded. Night markets, early morning markets, day markets and markets just for the weekends. We didn’t go this time around, but there is the Chatuchak Weekend Market. A full blown bonanza of a market that’s the largest in Thailand. It has over 15,000 stalls and 11,505 vendors according to Wikipedia. Cosmetics, antiques, electronics, pets, plants, art, clothes, food, whatever the desire, it’s here 3 different ways in 6 different colors. 

When we consider the world at large, not everyone has embraced the concept of equal pay for equal work and gender equality. A striking example I witnessed was a woman in a full burka, revealing only her eyes, holding a baby in 90-degree weather, while her husband sported slippers, shorts, a tank top, and stylish Calvin Klein sunglasses. This scenario is just one example of the inequality but there are other noted here also. Men often hold managerial positions while women are relegated to "worker bee" status, often in the tourism industry which is such a huge part of the Thailand economy these days. . 

Change will eventually come, benefiting societies that are attempting to embrace equality. However, those men accustomed to viewing women as second-class citizens might strongly resist these changes. I imagine they’ll probably throw a fit, kicking and screaming like a naughty 4 year old until those changes begin to take hold and become normalized. Bob Dylan aptly wrote, "The times, they are a-changin'."

Let's talk about shopping malls. One of the newer and most impressive ones sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, named ICONSIAM, roughly translated to ‘the icon of eternal prosperity’. You would do well to prosper mightily before you get here because they have the normal “we only let 3 guests at a time in the store” shops like your favs Giorgio, Oscar and Vera. It might sound a bit extravagant, but purchasing a New York Yankees jersey for $2495 is... well, I'm not sure how to describe it except maybe fun? Particularly if you have an American Express card with no limit. Or maybe, ridiculous, but fun would be a better way to put it as long as you can afford it. 

A waterfall of droplets fall in synch from the ceiling in different designs. One spells out ICONSIAM as it falls to the floor.

Here is ICONSIAM in all its glory. 

Anyway, the mall is stunning, boasting both extravagant shops and something for everyone. Spanning 5,650,000 square feet across 10 floors, it hosts over 700 shops and 100 restaurants. The prevailing theme in Thai shopping malls these days is to incorporate as much greenery as possible, rendering the interior of the mall gorgeous. They even feature a floating market on the main floor. Despite ICONSIAM not being the largest among the 200 malls in Bangkok, it's intriguing. It's akin to the abundance of food vendors on the streets—there's a small food stall, cart, or restaurant at every turn. You can dine at one or two tables set up right on the street or in small restaurants, some with no more than 4 or 5 tables. It puzzling how these shops survive and make a living, just as I wonder how 200 malls manage to stay in business. Despite seemingly improbable odds, they simply do. The malls are consistently bustling, and there's always someone waiting for their plate or bowl of food at the street vendors.

The following are tugboats. I must have a thing about them for as many photos that were taken of them 

If you are a tugboat fan also, knock yourself out on these work horses. 

Moon and I hope you had a wonderful time welcoming in the New Year. Our travels have exposed us to places where mutual respect among people is important and customary. I  recall Japan, where a bow, known as 'yumi,' and in Thailand, 'wei,' signifies respect and acknowledgment towards others. It's something that we might benefit from in the USA. Let's hope this coming year is filled with peace, good health, and prosperity for all of us. 

Happy New Year,

Ed and Terry.   

We’re Going Back to Bangkok: Part 1

We arrived in Bangkok, one of our most favorite and interesting big cities. It's called the 'City of Angels' due to the ever-present temples, wats, and shrines that dot this metropolis. Look anywhere, and you'll find one stretching to the sky in all its ornate glory or a small one right around the corner, crammed into its own space. It's a reminder of the importance of Buddhism and Thailand's spiritual history, which are fundamental to its people.

Wat Arjun. Famous, often visited Shrine near our hotel. 

Small shrine just outside the gate to the pier where we go to Chinatown.  

According to several travel sites, Bangkok is the most visited city in the world. The population is around 11 million people. Thailand's Tourism Ministry estimates that there have been 24.5 million visitor visits as of November 25th of this year. To be fair, a portion of those are here on business, but most are tourists. The majority of those tourists visit between November and February. It's bursting at the seams with everyone wanting to buy a pair of light cotton pants with an elephant design all over them or anything with 'The North Face' logo on it. It's like joining the throngs of people trying to get a scone on the last day of the Puyallup Fair, only it's that way day after day. Phew! But, hey, that's part of the charm. 

The Chao Phraya river jammed with water taxis, tour boats, long tails and hotel taxis jockeying for position, trying to get first dibs on letting their riders off or getting their riders onto their boats. Pretty much a zoo on the water, but fun to watch. 

Chinatown market. If this looks crowed, it is. We only walked down 4 or 5 blocks through this skinny hallway and it was just like this for another 4 or 5 blocks. The vendors are yelling at potential customers to buy their stuff. Overstimulation for me. They have everything from underwear to hammers to Christmas supplies to dishes to whatever you want, it’s here. 

The main street in Chinatown hosts various goods but primarily features restaurants and food stalls offering out-of-this-world tasting Asian and international food. Additionally, there are gem and jewelry shops along this street. Pandemonium would be a good way to describe Chinatown, but in an exciting way.

As an aside, Hong Kong consistently held the position as the number one visited country in the world until China unceremoniously wrestled it to the mat in a headlock until the count of three. Before anyone knew it, Hong Kong was no longer under the 'one country, two systems policy'—the deal they made with Britain back in the '90s to allow Hong Kong to remain a 'free enterprise zone.' However, China keeps its promises until they don't, so Hong Kong dropped way down the list of most visited countries. I guess the world's travelers are reluctant to visit a country whose government beats on its citizens and crushes any opposing views, (see Tiananmen Square). 

The Chao Phraya River runs right through the middle of Bangkok and is a major working river. We sat each morning with our cup of coffee and watched the traffic move up and down the river. If it floats and has some sort of engine to move it through the water it’s probably here somewhere, every kind of watercraft imaginable. To name a few: water taxis of every description, some as long as 100 feet; dinner barges, oil barges, barges filled with sand, rice, rock; tug boats, runabouts, skiffs, long tails; police boats and military boats. There are many more but that gives an idea of the variety we saw on the river. 

Tourist boat. Ticket sellers attempt to sell unsuspecting tourists 30 baht (or about a dollar) for this boat knowing that a local Thai, aware of the water taxi schedule, can take another boat to the same destination for 16 baht. 

Hard to see but the barges in the foreground are full of sand and the barges behind are unloaded and float high in the water. 

A long tail taxi has a long shaft with a propeller at the end usually driven by an old tractor or truck engine. The shaft is 10-12 feet long. 

Tugs and a tour boat. 

Multicolored tug boat helping steer multiple barges.

 

Waiting in a long tail boat to lock down into the klongs or canals that surround Bangkok and southern Thailand. 

One of the most interesting water craft are the barges. Usually 3 or 4 barges are roped together with a tugboat pulling out in front and a tugboat behind that pushes the back one way or another to help with steering. On each barge is a small house, usually with laundry hanging off one side and, occasionally, there is a deckhand mulling about doing various tasks. If the ships are loaded they sink down into the water and generally move slowly. If unloaded, they look almost like a bobber they float so high on the river. Barges heading north are usually carrying sand, gravel or rock for building and construction. Barges heading south are usually carrying agricultural good. 

We most often took water taxis, tourist boats or long tails boats. The water taxis were the most convenient way to get from one place to another, then on to a subway, train or taxi. Getting on and off the water taxi was like being in a fun house at an amusement park where the floor shifts in different directions and trying to navigate from one end to the other is the challenge. Here, everyone stands and attempts to keep their balance on a dock that’s moving to and fro and up and down from the wishy washy water conditions. The approaching taxi bumps or slams into the dock, both boat and dock moving in their own direction that creates a gap that keeps opening and closing while everyone attempts to jumps on or off the boat. All the while the deckhand is yelling at everyone to hurry…”go, go, go!!!” Watching some of the older Thai ladies elbowing their way onto the boat to get down the stairs and into a seat so they don’t have to stand on the moving boat is hilarious. Even so, I still got to the seat first. Ha!

Every big city has its problems, and Bangkok has its share. The Chao Phraya River is the most polluted river in Thailand, laden with bacterial and nutrient pollutants, heavy metals, and an abundance of plastic waste. The government is addressing this through various means, such as subcontracting with companies like 'The Ocean Cleanup.' Their technologies trap, sort, and repurpose the plastic for non-single-use products, while also incinerating it to generate energy. Let's hope these efforts prove effective.

Another critical issue is Bangkok sinking due to its foundation on clay instead of bedrock. The extensive use of concrete in construction adds weight, and the clay is more malleable than rock. Compounding this, global warming and rising sea levels present a challenge. As the lower part of Thailand is a vast delta, problems due to increased flooding are emerging. Bangkok sits only about 5 feet above sea level, highlighting the vulnerability of this environment.

Presently, the city uses pumps during the rainy season to divert water into the Chao Phraya River and out to the ocean. However, during normal times, like our current visit, I noticed water being pumped into the river during high tide. I hope they can effectively manage these challenges. Ultimately, I hope we collectively address our global warming issues successfully.

Ending on a more positive note, here are a couple of pictures of the nightly light show on one of the bridges that we enjoyed every night. 

Rama VIII Bridge. The bridge was an engineering marvel which has an asymmetrical design with a single pylon on one side of the water and inverted Y cables stretched across the bridge holding it up. 

Hope all is well with you.

Ed out. 

 1``         

Phuket: Tourist Haven

Whoa! If you're a true-blue tourist, Phuket is tourist heaven. Phuket is the center of the universe of tourism in Thailand. It attracts a truly international crowd. There’s a reason for that. Here, get pampered with manicures, pedicures, facials and massages until you’re so relaxed you could melt. Zip lines, ATV and Sea Doos, scooters, bikes and go karts are here to rent. Snorkel and dive in clear blue waters of the Andaman sea. Tours of every description were hawked by tour operators on every street counter. Shop until you drop, eat to your heart's content and/or drink the night away. It’s hard to consider abstaining from anything…it’s exhausting, really.

Then, after contemplating the previous day's indulgences, you hop into a tuk-tuk for a journey to a Wat high on a hill above Phuket. There you can find solace for the excesses of the past few days and a Monk will even say a prayer and bless you. This can help with finding a way back to some sort of harmony and balance. What’s a relief. Then, you can steady yourself and move on to another day of, well, more excesses. With so, so many choices, why not?    

Room, Marcella, Terry and I, high on a hill.

Here we are looking for the monk.

Speaking of eating, trying to zero in on the perfect choice for dinner where the choices seem limitless, it’s a target-rich environment. There are so many varieties of foods that it’s a bit overwhelming. Food vendors line the streets in every direction. We favor the street food, but the restaurants here offer a diverse collection of international fare. We dined in a Croatian restaurant one night, relished seafood at a night market, indulged in curry for a lunch, and started each day with a breakfast buffet. Thankfully, we're getting plenty of exercise; otherwise, buying a size larger swimsuit on an “active” vacation was never part of the plan.

We visited another shrine and Wat in Phuket that had a meditation center, a building housing statues of revered monks, and another with a statue of the Buddha. All with the same theme: the calm and reverence to the Buddha and Buddhism as a way of life. I entered the last shrine before we left and looked up to see a monk sitting in a throne. I removed my hat and bowed out of respect before I realized it wasn’t a living, breathing monk but an authentic-looking statue. 

With so many things to do and so many ways to experience life here in this tourist mecca, it’s not surprising there are constant reminders of Buddhism. Buddhists believe that human life is one of suffering, and that meditation, spiritual and physical labor, and good behavior are the ways to achieve enlightenment, or nirvana, (from National Geographic). I’m convinced that the Buddha never envisioned this type of Nirvana as do some of the guests of Phuket think it might be. Which makes me wonder, could part time enlightenment work out ok?

All for now. You’re welcome to leave comments if you wish. Happy Holidays to everyone. 

Ed, out.    

Quiet Koh Phayam

Having been in Thailand for a duration similar to our stay in Japan, I've gained perspective on the diffences between these countries and their people. To draw an analogy, if each country were a person, the Japanese might resemble a purpose-driven adult with a serious demeanor, dressed in black and focused on getting down to business. In contrast, the Thai people could be likened to a carefree teenager wearing shorts and an 'I love New York' tank top, with a big smile, ready to play. This is, of course, a generalization. Being able to enjoy the differences between two cultures, each with their own type of richness, diversity and history is the reason Moon and I travel. 

Onto Ranong, southwest of Bangkok, on the coast.  Ranong sits a couple miles from the Thai-Myanmar border. Our desire to visit Myanmar, (Burma), has been longstanding. Unfortunately, the country has a troubled history and is currently ruled by a military junta. The US State Department says it’s a no go. Mines, kidnapping and/or arresting foreigners, lousy healthcare, civil unrest, and the military trying to kill off a portion of its ethnic citizenry are a few good reasons to stay away. I suppose when there is news that Starbucks and Mickey Ds start opening up, it’ll be safe for a visit.  

At the docks in Ranong, we stepped onto a a 42 foot speed boat with two 250 hp Yamaha outboards and sped off down the river and out into the Andaman Sea for a quick 40 minute ride to the Island of Koh Phayam. Our other choice was a “ferry” that would have taken. 2 1/4 hours. That piece of work looked like it could have been christened “Dubious”, which would have fit perfectly with its ramshackle appearance. No thank you.  

We arrived at the docks on the east side of the island and headed to our bungalow on the west side via TukTuk, a 3 wheeled motorcycle. There were no cars on this island. So scooters, Tuk Tuks, and small tractor equipment that looks as if it does all the heavy lifting type work on the island.

Our beach bungalow was located on a long, expansive beach that was essentially deserted, save for a handful of people. It stayed that way throughout our trip, a stark contrast to Chiang Mai, which was bustling with humanity from end to end. The fresh salt air, warmth of the sun, and the sand between our toes created an ideal beach experience—relaxing and peaceful.

There were three things this island had in abundance: butterflies, mangy looking dogs, and scooters. I can understand the scooters because it’s the only way to get around and do business here for the 500 or so people that live on the island full time and probably that many visitors during the high season. Thats how everyone gets from one place to another here. It makes sense.  

Then there are the dogs of Koh Phayam. They are everywhere; at the pier, on the streets, in the restaurants, on the beach. They probably outnumber scooters. Their favorite pastime is to lay right in the middle of the street as the scooters whiz by their heads at 20 mph. Those streets are about 2/3s the width of one lane of a Seattle side street, so not very wide at all. And they don’t even flinch. If it were me laying in the middle of the street trying to nap, with scooters zooming by me at 20 mph I’d be a nervous wreck. It’s silly of me to nap in the middle of the road but you get the picture. It’s a delicate dance between the scooters and the dogs.  

Then, there are the dogs of Koh Phayam. They're everywhere; at the pier, in the restaurants, at the beach and in the streets.  They probably outnumber the scooters. Their favorite pastime is lounging right in the middle of the street as scooters whiz by at 20 or 30 mph. These street are about one quarter the width of a Seattle side street, so quite narrow. Surprisingly, they don’t even flinch. If it were me, trying to nap in the middle of the street with scooters zooming by at 20 mph, I'd be a nervous wreck. Admittedly, it’s absurd to nap in the middle of the road, but you get the picture. It's a delicate dance between the scooters and the dogs and each knows their place to stay safe.

Lastly, there were butterflies. Throughout our stay, no matter where we were on the island, they were constantly fluttering about. The hotel manager mentioned that they feed on tiny light purple flowers found on specific bushes, and those bushes are scattered all around the island.

Butterflies everywhere. 

All for now. We left the tranquil atmosphere of Koh Phayam for Phuket, and boy, was that a shock. 

Ed, out.

Oh My, Chiang Mai

We returned to Chiang Mai to experience the celebrations that accompany the Loy Krathong and Yi Peng festivals in this northern city of Thailand. Both are coupled together during the full moon at the end of November every year. It is a spectacle of a high order. 

The Loy Kathrong celebration is a show of gratefulness to the Goddess of Water since water is so integral to the Thai way of life. Small floating wreaths of every shape, color and material, about the size of a salad plate are assembled with small flowers and leaves, a small candle in the middle and a couple of stick incense sticking out the top. It’s placed carefully into the water, then given a small nudge and down the river it goes. As it floats away so do grudges, bad luck and maybe a bit of iffy karma which is why th drivers is flooded with these little baskets. 

Legend has it that it’s also a romantic exercise because it seemed to be performed by couples making goo goo eyes at each other. So I did my best goo goo eyes impression at Moon, (as she rolled her eyes at me).Then we set our floating basket off down the river, grateful to the Goddess of Water for her continued existence and grateful for each other as we enjoy our travels and adventures together.  

Yi Peng is a festival commonly celebrated to expunge bad luck one might have acquired along life’s path.  This process entails lighting a waxy candle-like ring in the bottom of rice paper lantern held together by bamboo. The heat fills the lantern until it starts to rise. The lanterns are carried away into the sky along with those luck problems. It is also a moment to say a prayer for all your ancestors that have passed before you. Basically, the river that runs through Chiang Mai is filled with small floating flower baskets and the skies are full of lighted lanterns and fireworks. The joyous atmosphere is filled with an anticipation that prayers will be conveyed, wishes will be granted and luck will be more favorable. The whole occasion is pretty impressive. 

I took this photo from the internet. I had a million chances to take photos of every type of these showy little baskets but ended up with none. Bad blogger! I picked this particular photo because Terry made one that looked almost like this one.  

Not a great photo of the Loy Krathong, but you probably get the idea. 

 

Good luck lanterns being released into the sky.

Unfortunately, there was a downside that we experienced in Chiang Mai at the time of the festivals. There seemed to be an over abundance of folks wishing to relieve themselves of their lousy luck. Trying to get back to the hotel was clostraphobic. We were surrounded on all sides by heat, people, cars, motorbikes and everyone moved at a snails pace. Crowded would be an understatement. People gridlock would be a term I would use to describe it. To be in that close proximity for so long with seemingly nowhere to turn for relief was a little creepy. We finally returned to the hotel and were relieved.  

  

Thailand is full of temples, Buddhist Temples. They are everywhere. The Thailand Dept. of Religious Affairs estimates that 92% of Thais are Buddhists, 5% are Muslim and 1+% are Christian.  At its basic level Buddhism teaches practitioners to let go of attachment, cultivate compassion and practice mindfulness. (Who wouldn’t think that would be a step in the right direction?) There are massive temples, small temples, street corner shrines, temples in the middle of nowhere and famous ones smack dab in the middle of cities. It’s a sign of the spiritual nature of the Thai people and is thought to be less of a religion than a way of life. It does give off a sense of reverence even in the chaos of a big city like Bangkok. The Thai peoples’ graciousness, their happiness and easy smiles, and their pleasing attitude toward others is a nice welcome to those of us who like to visit here. 
 

  

In the second and third photo is what’s call a chedi or supra and this one is gold plated. It’s a sight to see, having been here for more than 500 years

We met our friends in Chiang Mai for the purpose of enjoying the Loi Krathong and LiPeng Festivals together. Maxx and Kay, Scott,Terry and I took time out to visit Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a Buddhist temple. It is 3500 feet above Chiang Mai. The road to get there makes the perilous winding road from Kahului to Hanna on Maui look like a straight line. Heading up the mountain with the road twisting and turning was like a E ride at Disneyland. 

As per Wikipedia, this small Dio Suthep temple was built in 1383s. It’s been decorated and redecorated and expanded numerous time since then. It seems as if there are temples within temples and shrines within shrines here. There is something for every one. There are Buddhas standing, sitting, laying on his side and one holding a sign that read, “Call here to find out what Buddha wants for you”. I was kidding about the last one. That’s probably blasphemous and I don’t want any bad karma, really, I was just kidding. 

The road to the temple was finally built in 1935. Here’s what I’m thinking…for 552 years the good residence of Chiang Mai climbed 3500 feet up the mountain to give thanks to Buddha and offer prayers. Back then, following the Buddha’s path was not without its perils and sacrifice. Even in todays’ world, we observed 3 monks walking up the road as we headed down the mountain after our visit. Truth be told, if I were one of those months, I’d put my thumb out for a ride to the top. But, when picturing that scenario, a monk thumbing a ride just doesn’t seem right, does it?  

Working safety here in Thailand can be a bit dicey. Here are a couple of workers that are hooking up who knows what in a fur ball of tangled electrical lines. The bamboo ladder, which has metal steps, was leaned against the whole mess as the hookup proceeded. I watched them do this twice as they moved down the street. Moon and I worked with the injured worker population for years and visiting many worksites. We observed many unsafe practices. This one is a real doozy. This photo might be on the cover of The WA State Dept of Labor and Industries pamphlet with a caption, “Don’t do this, ever”. 

The restaurants here have funny names and those often cater to tourists. Our favorite, where we had breakfast each morning, was Butter is Better. They had a complete section of Fred McMurray. Remember My Three Sons? Our other favorite with killer biscuits and gravy was Bella Goose.  

All for now.  Ed out. 

Osaka on a fast train.

 One last thing about the big city of Tokyo. There must be some sort of unwritten rule for keeping cars in like-new condition here, because every vehicle in this city looks as if it came right off the showroom floor. They’re so clean they might even be hygienic. Commercial or personal, it didn’t seem to matter. I observed a street sweeper whose whole working existence is to pick up and clear away dust, dirt and debris. It’s supposed to look like Snoopy’s buddy Pig-Pen but is was clean as a whistle. How is that even possible?

Onto Osaka on a Bullet Train or Shinkansen as the Japanese have coined it. Japan was the first country in the world to build dedicated rail lines for high speed travel. The Shinkansen zips along this high speed railway line a a shopping 176 mph. As a comparison, the train from Seattle to Vancouver, BC, covers 120 miles in 3 hours and 58 miles at the snail’s speed of 30 mph. If you booked a reservation on a Shinkansen out of Seattle, (if they had one), where could you go in that amount of time?  San Francisco would be an easy reach with enough time left over to grab some chocolates in Ghirardelli Square down at the waterfront. The ride was an enjoyable experience as we flew by the towns and countryside, albeit a dizzying one. 

Our first full day in a new city brought to light a few differences between the people of Tokyo and those in Osaka. The residents of Tokyo are generally stoic and reserved and made eye contact only by accident then quickly looked away. Smiling seem to be forbidden and probably only happens in public if a player wins a bundle on a game of Pachinko. And they’re a quiet bunch. With a gazillion folks jockeying for space on a train or subway in a big enclosed hallway, it’s oddly quiet. Cram 120 or more of those same  folks into a subway car and the decibel level goes from oddly quiet to soundproof-room quiet. Weird but truc. A pin drop would sound like a firecracker here. When riding the Osaka transit, it’s a much lighter atmosphere.

Pachinko Hall.

Osaka folks, on the other hand, seem more relaxed.  They smile easier, are more chatty, and just don’t seem to have an “all business, all the time” kind of demeanor. They actually laugh here, out loud. I observed it myself. They wear different colored clothing, like they’re not afraid of getting a ticket for wearring something other than black like they seem to do in Tokyo. There were many more families out and about in Osaka as compared to Tokyo. And that’s where you see the smiles and hear the laughter most often.   

Everybody rides a bike here in Osaka, young and old, (and I mean old). It’s a means of transportation and exercise.  Moon and I chuckled when we saw a women riding an old rusty bike, who had to be in her 90s. And it wasn’t unusual to see a rider put groceries in the basket attached to the handlebars, throw the kid in the back bucket seat then hop on and peddle away. All this was done on a busy crowded sidewalk. It’s easy to wander aimlessly here because everything is new, there’s people everywhere, and the fragrance from the food stalls is alluring. But, it’s necessary to keep one eye on the sidewalk to avoid a nasty bike-tire-in-the-stomach scenario. I cant’t remember seeing a bike in downtown Tokyo.  

We toured the Osaka Castle in all its splendor. It’s an historical building 400 years old and still standing, although it’s been rebuilt several times. It’s one of the few things that wasn’t bombed during World Wars Two. 

We took a boat trip around the moat, with its high walls. It was obvious that the inhabitants of the castle wanted to keep any outsiders…out. 

At the other end of the spectrum from an ancient castle is the New Abeno Harukus building in Osaka. It was the tallest building in Japan at a height of 300 meters. If you are metrically challenged, that’s almost 1000 feet up. The tallest, anyway, until 3 days ago when the new Mori Building opened in Tokyo, which scrapes the sky at 330 meters, roughly 100 feet taller than the old champ in Osaka. Regardless, the view in Abeno Harukus was out of this world.  One floor down from the top was an outdoor mini-park where Moon and I sat down for a rest and to take in the view of Osaka. 

Wide angle shot of downtown Osaka taken with my i-phone.

Abeno Harukus Building.

While we were siting taking in the view, I took a picture of the sky’s reflection in the window. 

Many hotels in Japan have a thing they do that’s sort of, charming? Instead of providing each room with an entire basket of incidentals, those items are placed in a case near the first floor elevators. They’re free. A guest only takes what they need. So we’ll call it the Honor Case of Incidentals. The case includes mouthwash, combs, mesh wash clothes, shampoo and conditioner, coffee, toothbrushes and toothpaste, face cleanser, towelettes, body cream, toothpicks (what?), razors, and probably a couple things I missed. I know what you’re thinking, “this situation is ripe for abuse”. We spied such a situation when a woman loaded a bundle of items into her bag. She seemed to have a special affinity with the mesh wash clothes. Now, watching someone take more than they need because it’s free, I don’t know, it’s just wrong. And irritating to boot. That’s all I gotta say about that.  

The coolest thing across Japan that is consistent, whether in Osaka or Tokyo or anywhere else in this country is the bowing.  Everybody bows here.  It’s a sign of recognition and respect. It’s displayed in their behavior and attitude toward others and in the environment of their lives. A bow can mean many things, such as “hello”, “excuse me”, “thank you” and “good bye”, but those are only a few of many other possibilities. It’s refreshing, really. 

By the way, when we return back home and any of you need one of those nifty mesh wash clothes or one of those handy little plastic fold-up combs, let me know because I have a bunch of ‘em. Test me.