Big Beijing, China

Well Hello Beijing. There are 35 million Chinese that live in the greater Beijing area. and on their day off they all visit the Forbidden City, a huge palace complex in the center of the city. It was crowded to say the least. For you history buffs, The Forbidden City served as the home of some serious emperors and their households as well as the ceremonial and political center of Chinese government for almost 500 years. The Forbidden City was constructed so that if you didn't get an invite inside...you definitely weren't getting in. No crashing this party. Walls 50 feet high, moats, guard houses/lookouts, twenty foot doors a foot thick and walls within walls were just a few of the touches that were employed.  If an intruder actually got in, they'd never get out alive which is why it's lasted more than 500 years.  As in other temples and palaces in Asia, this huge place was constructed without nails and used joints and other architectural fixes to do the trick. An impressive place. 

Funny thing, if I didn't see the Chinese folks running around all over Beijing I'd think I was in New York. It has the same type of energy, they dress the same, they drive the same cars, they shop the same, the families act the same out in public but they're Chinese, that's the difference. Good or bad, they look Americanized. In many ways, they are just like us.   

However, there are differences.  The government is a subtle but all encompassing presence. It's kind of creepy.  Our tour guide told us that Beijing, with so many millions of inhabitants, is very safe, and I believe them. (Step out of line and they will take you away.)  And there is a subtle existence of discomfort when a local talks about something like Tienanmen Square, which our guide termed the Tienanmen Massacre.  When visiting Tienanmen Square the place was heavily guarded.  Like they want to make sure that if the students ever thought about protesting again...maybe they should think again. Anyway, anywhere we went we did feel safe.  

A few other differences...the men like to hock one up and spit.  Our cab driver did this and since I caught some wind when he opened the window to hang one out, I actually ducked. Thought that was an anomaly but I observed other drivers and guys on the street do it regularly. Never saw a woman do the same.  They do have standards. And may I chat briefly about the men's restrooms?  There are alot of no smoking areas around. So when the men start to have a nic fit they head to the restrooms.  Never in the open, they always grab a stall, close the door and light up. You would guess that the restroom would smell kind of like...you know...how restrooms smell, odorous? Fetid?  Not here.  They smell exactly like a full ashtray...a large ashtray.  However, as Terry tells me, the women's powder room does not have the same, ah,  "fragrance" as the men. Speaking of women, just about everywhere we traveled, women seemed to be subservient to the men, to one degree or another. America has made such great strides to level the playing field in gender equality...that it becomes noticeable when one human being is under the thumb of another. However, not my country so I kept my thoughts to myself. 

Smog.  They have a problem here. Air pollution particulate levels are measured on a 6 tiered scale from 0-50 which is an acceptable range to >500 which is considered an Emergency. Several days we were there it was above the 500 level and we work masks.  Several weeks prior to our visit to Beijing they recorded levels in the 700-800 levels.  Not so good. They're trying to get a handle on it. Not all cars can drive each day of the week. Industry is fined and limited from functioning if the levels get too high.  I would say that 90% of the motorbikes and scooters are electric. So normally when walking down the street you hear a cacophony of scooters.  Not in Beijing. They putter down the street as quiet as a church mouse. Electric cars and hybrids are on rise. Anyway, they are trying.  

The Great Wall was pretty interesting.  6000 kilometers or 3728 miles long, depending on who is measuring. It was built to prevent marauding nomads from invading the kingdoms. It also was a trade route and allowed different regions to collects taxes and control immigration and emigration. There where initially many walls, but eventually they were connected up. At one point, the wall was guarded by over 1 million Chinese guardsmen.  A pretty monumental task. 

We visited quite a bit of Art while in Beijing.  Our hotel, The Eclat, was designed and built by Hong Kong's George Wong, an architect.  He was a big supporter of art and was also exhibited art around the world, particularly in Asia and Europe.  Our hotel was filled to the brim with great art and has the largest collection of Salvador Dali Sculptures in China. It was fantastic to be able to see it all.  

Terry contemplating the Great Wall 

Well, there you have it everybody.  We just arrived back home and I wanted to finish this off.  Hope you have enjoyed.  

Loose ends iin Chiang Mai and Bangkok

I like Chiang Mai.  It has a certain energy to it, an easy excitement. Moon and I were a little sad to leave.  Didn’t have enough time to see all there was to see.  It’s cooler due to a higher altitude so that was nice, compared to Bangkok where it’s hot and humid and I was thinking often about taking a shower to cool off.  I’m not dissing Bangkok because it's one of my favorite places.

Above of Chiang Mai in the mountains is a Buddhist temple and a Thai Hill Tribe. With Moon on the back of our motorbike, we headed up the windy road all the way to the top.  A motorcyclist dream of a road.  In and out of the corners with with a big smile on my face.  You could feel the sudden changes in the temperatures, the coolness of the shade from the tall trees and the warmth of the sunlight when momentarily breaking out into the open. Then there I was thinking I'm in Nirvana, taking in the fragrance and lushness of the jungle, Moon would yell, "GET BACK ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ROAD!!!". We'll it was peaceful when I remembered to stay on the left side of the road instead of the right like we do in the states. We enjoyed the view all the way up and the cool weather at a higher altitude. The Temple was beautiful and the hill tribes showed off their hand made wares. And, of course, we bought some.

The Thai people are a gracious and respectful bunch. Easy to smile. They only get riled if you touch their head, point, or say nasty things about their King.  Otherwise, they’re pretty easy going, with one other exception. Driving. Men and women, young and old think of themselves as Michael Andretti types.  Driving here is just one big game of Chicken. Cutting in, tailgating, passing to on-coming traffic, making 5 lanes of traffic on a three lane highway, it might not be legal but it's permitted by your fellow drivers. Merging is accomplished by whoever gives up first. You name it, they do it. That said, no one seems to get upset or angry, no hand gestures, little to no honking, no road rage...no malice.

Moon and I snorkeled in Koh Lanta.  When the boat arrived everyone climbed in and took off their shoes, then thrown into a plastic clothes basket so we wouldn't get sand all over the floor of the boat.  The snorkeling environment was beautiful, the coral and fish...lots of fish.  The water was so warm it was amazing. I could have stayed in the water the whole day.  After finishing, the anchor was pulled and we were headed for home in unsettled seas.  There were four delightful giggling Japanese women on the boat and one of them started to turn green.  She finally jumped up and headed for the garbage can, but unfortunately only made it as far as our basket of shoes to relieve her stomach upset.  We’re her friends aghast? Discussing how they might comfort their friend ?....No they were all giggling, which led the rest of us to start giggling too.  It was funny.

Traveling is Therapy.  It allows time to let go of all the tensions daily life might bring at home, even if they are insignificant and grants some space to reflect in a different environment. I could probably do that at home but would miss the richness and diversity of other's culture and people.  It can also be a humbling experience to know we have it pretty good back home in Seattle Washington, USA.

Beijing next and last.

Train ride to Chiang Mai

We’re off to the highlands of Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand after a relatively short plane ride from Krabi in southern Thailand and the beach scene.  The decision was made to take a train ride through the middle of the country instead of a plane ride so we could see the sights. The down side to that was a long passage with questionable air conditioning and ultimately a flat butt.  The upside was clickity clacking through fields of rice, sugar cane, fruit groves, palm and banana trees, and other vegetables or fruit we couldn’t identify.  The jungle was...lush.  I could see how Tarzan might grab a vine and swing through the trees towards Jane as she was preparing a cuppucinno...oh, wait...I went off the rails there. Sorry. Anyway, it was an enjoyable, if long, ride.  Don’t think I need to do it again.

Loy Krathong Lantern Festival coinciding with
Yi Peng.

We happened to visit Chiang Mai at November’s full moon.  That’s the time the Thais celebrate the Loy Krathong and Yi Peng.  Loy Krathong is a celebration where the Thais gather around lakes, rivers, or canals and pay respect to the goddess of water by releasing small floats made of leaves and flowers with a candle and burning incense.  Our waiter suggested we put a small part of a fingernail and one hair into the mix for good luck.  I didn’t see him snicker when he left the table so we went ahead and pulled a few hairs, along with the nail.

Lanterns in the sky and on the water

Yi Peng is a festival of light that that takes place, primarily in northern Thailand.  Rice paper lanterns that have a little fire at the bottom are launched into the sky to send away the previous years bad luck and to make a wish for the coming year. And it is a spectacle to see.  These two festivals happen at the same time, so there are literally thousand upon thousand lanterns in the sky and thousands of lighted floats cruising down the Ping River.  In addition, the fireworks are everywhere.  And the city if packed with humanity from wall to food stall wall.  Exciting, absolutely beautiful, and you feel the energy of the city come alive.  Quite a sight. And a great experience.   Did I mention how good the food was...I think I did.  More later.

Laid back Lanta

We took a Longtail boat from the the resort shore to the ferry. our next stop is Koh Lanna. The ferry doesn’t actually stop it just slows down while you jump on or off.  Our stay was in a non-resort, a six cabin little number that has some of the best food around.  The reviews were correct, the food was the best. It’s run by a guy from England and a Thai woman.  Apparently, Dave enjoyed traveling Asia and wound up in Koh Lanta.  In his wandering he stopped at a little restaurant and found the food the best he tasted in Thailand, which is much coming from a traveler who’s done a lot of time in SE Asia.  He went a second night, then a third, then the cook, Lek, asked if he wanted to join her and the family on a night out.  As it is in the movies, Dave’s vacation ended and he returned to England but couldn’t stop thinking about the skillful chef and Koh Lanta. Not soon after he returned to the island and Lek. They decided to marry then partnered in a little piece of paradise with the delicious food and beautiful gardens and bungalows and never looked back. They are two of the nicest people you’d ever want to meet.  True story.  

Kamikaze Longtail Pilots trading passengers.

You would think after several years of blogging on our trips I could figure out how to deal with the pictures and copy, but no.  I have not.  This is as tidy as it gets.  

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We are scooter nerds.  Always, we rent scooters to see the local sites. It’s the best way to get around, relatively cheap (we pay a little less than $6 per day), gas is about a buck 20 a gallon, and it’s completely safe if you keep you eyes closed most of time and ignore those around you...just kiddin.  Moon and I enjoy getting lost down side roads where we’ve found unusual markets, a turtle farm, lost beaches, great local restaurants, and a golf course out in the middle of nowhere with no one playing that we could see.  Twilight zone stuff.

The sunset picture was actually taken after dark.  I lightened the image all the way up on the IPhone and bingo I got a pretty great picture by accident. When I took it, there was no color, just a bit of fading light.  

More later.

Welcome to the Andaman Sea

Moon and I left Bangkok for now but we’ll return by the end of the trip. We are in an Island named Koh Jum (also called Koh Pu) on the Andaman Sea.  The Andaman Sea touches Myanmar (the old Burma), Thailand and the Malay Penninsula. The island is remote, the water warm, the atmosphere quiet and the exciting sights and night life...non existent. A perfect balance for the craziness and hustle and bustle of Hong Kong and Bangkok. Our decision was to try something a little more relaxing.  I’m so relaxed I could fall over most of the time.  Here’s the agenda: walk the beach, swim a little, read, take a nap...repeat.  There have been torrential thunderstorms here in the afternoons, particularly yesterday and today.  We were on the lanai yesterday, relaxing, watching the rain.  We happened to look out when a lightening bolt struck a couple hundred yards away.  There was an instantaneous thunder clap that just about blew out our eardrums.  We sat in shock as the thunder rolled away, but it took a while for my sphincter level to draw down into normal limits.  I’ve never been that close to a lightening bolt before this trip.  Hope to never get closer than that. 

Koh Phi Phi and the long tail boats.

We took a snorkeling day trip to some of the other islands. Clear, warm water, massive fish, and some of the prettiest scenery we’ve experienced.  A self guided scooter tour around the island which didn’t take long because the island is not very big. In the southern parts of Thailand, where we are now, the population is predominately Muslim.  The guys wear the normal tropical garb, shorts and T-shirt. Elder men seem to wear more traditional robe, turbin or cap.  The women, on the other hand, wear head scarf, long sleeves, and some sort of pants so they are generally covered head to toe.  Observed several women wearing black burqas.  I’m thinking to myself...that’s got to be hot.  Off to Koh Lanata tomorrow, an island probably 10 times bigger than Koh Jum.  A little more excitement. A little more to explore. We’re easing our way back into a livelier experience.  More later.  

Bamboo Island

Sunset over the Andaman Sea. It was beaut!

In the midst of Bangkok

Transportation here can be accomplished by almost any means.  Our favorite is water taxi.  A rough and tumble carnival ride in a Chao Phraya river full of traffic.  The taxis zoom into each stop like an  Indy pit stop, throw the thing in reverse and hit the throttle until the boat slams into the dock.  The stop at each pier or dock is long enough to drop off and pick up passengers.  This is done as quickly as possible.  With the dock moving up and down, the boat moving up and down, the first mate yelling go, go, go in Thai, we disembark or hop on in record time.  Stops lasts no more than 10-20 seconds.  There could be 30-40 people in the mix.  A stop of 30-45 seconds would be a lifetime. 

Water Taxi

In addition to the water taxis, there are long tail boat taxi’s with a propeller on the end of a long shaft, boats from many of the hotels, regular taxis, buses, mini buses, Tuk Tuks, trains, and subways.  Then there is the Death Wish 3 or Speed Demons from Hell way to go by getting on the back of a motorcycle or scooter. Women in a dress or skirt ride side saddle as the scooter careens in and out of traffic as fast as possible.  Pretty easy to get around here, but you do have to pick your risk level.

Everybody works here...at something.  It’s the Thai way.  You just don’t see people panhandling much here. It’s a rare occasion.

Many, many Thais sell food in carts. Most locals here eat street food, which I gotta say, is some of the tastiest food I’ve ever eaten. It’s a mouth watering experience, walking down a side street of a food market, particularly in Chinatown.  The fragrance of curry, hot oil, spicy noodles,         fried rice. From the iced tray below, the process is to pick a seafood, then choose one of 10 different ways you would like it cooked...and bingo it’s in front of you on the plate in ten minutes.  We had the whole salt-covered Red Fish stuffed with lemon grass and garlic, OMG it was good. For dessert? Fresh coconut in a sweet bread.  I nearly died......

Iced seafood tray: fish, lobster, scallops,
Prawns, squid, clams.

Chinatown with it’s traffic, busy(ness), and great
Food

Red Fish.  We ate one of these.  DEElicious.

There is a water taxi below and a tug boats pulling 4 barges.  Each barge is full of rice and they follow each other up and down the river with on their way to load the rice or down river to unload it not larger ships or truck for the local area.  Thailand is the number one rice producer in the world.  More later.

  

Water taxi and barges full of rice.  

Bangkok, here we are!

Hong Kong was sort of a sophisticated upscale cosmopolitan city filled to the brink with people, people everywhere, on the go and in a hurry even when they’re resting. Bangkok is not.  It’s  cosmopolitan in it’s own right, but different.  A refined culture but primitive at the same time.  As the pictures show, there are ultra-modern skyscrapers next door to tenements and homes in limited repair.  Bangkok seems to be caught between the last century and it’s future,

We are glad to be back with a slower pace, happy respectful Thai people, and so many things to see.  One of my favorites in watching the Chao Phraya River and the boats of every size and purpose. This morning at breakfast 3 tugs pulling and steering 4 barges passed by.  We inquired about the contents of the barges because they were all covered.  We were told they were full of rice...rice?  Can you image how much rice is in those barges?  That’s a lot of Rice Krispies.   More later.  

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Bye Bye Hong Kong

Leaving Hong Kong and it’s unmitigated growth and renovation.  There is so much construction work here to keep Hong Kong busy for the next ten years, even if they don’t start anything new.  If you are in the construction industry...these are good times.  Some of the mammoth apt or condo building are so big they would make the MGM in Vegas look like a 6 room boarding house if you placed one next to the other.  Hong Kong has more people living above the 15th floor of their skyscrapers than anywhere else in the world.  And if it’s not new construction, they are renovating everytthing in sight.  It’s almost difficult to comprehend,  Hong Kong is supposed to be one of the best places to do business in the world.  It shows.

This is also one of the most diverse communities in the world.  The main religion is Buddhism and Taoism but there are plenty of Protestant, Catholic, Islam, Hindu, Sikk and others. Pick one...it’s here somewhere.  Sexuality...People sort of let others live the way they want to live and go about their own lives. You like different cultural experiences?...I saw a Nepalese restaurant, next to a Dim Sum cart, next to a Chinease cafe with duck/goose/pork hanging in the window.  Unfortunately the cafe was right next to a Mickey Ds with it’s fragrance of French fries, but the point is they were all within throwing distance. The people here are predominately Asian, which is a stretch since there are multitudes of Asian cultures, but many European, North Americans, Africans, Jews, Indians, Arab, and a lot of Aussies.  Really, if a particulate people live on this earth, they are here somewhere selling their native delicacies from a food cart. To my taste, this type of diversity is a full meal deal experience and Moon and I love it.

You would expect that such diversity would cause people to be banging up against each other.  However, Hong Kong has one of the lowest violent crimes in the world.  If you want a gun here, the process is to get a license and training.  Then you’re good to go.  They don’t have instances of people walking into a synagogue, work place, movie theater or anywhere else for that matter, pulling out a gun and mowing down their fellow countrymen.  I’m not naive enough to think there are no prejudices here but people live in seriously close proximity to each other and for the good of all, there is tolerance of others.  I guess, with little imagination, you probably guessed where I sit with the whole gun control thing.

It was easy to get around here.  Train, subway, more buses than you can shake a wheel axel at, taxis, trams, railed trollys which was our fav way to go and the world’s longest escalator, (800 meters long, rising 135 meters vertically).  Unfortunately, there was a major problem with the enjoyment of riding the escalator all the way uphill for 8 or 9 blocks...going down, one has to negotiate the stairs.  By my calculation that’s...a lot of stairs.

Anyway, Hong Kong was a good experience.  We’re off to Bangkok...with their delicious food, happy people, warm weather, a massive scooter population and cheap t-shirts.  

Humanity

There is a sea of humanity here.  Everyone determined to get where they’re going regardless if you are an obstacle in the way to their true course. That course is to take the fastest, most efficient path possible. You can imagine the chaos when everyone uses the same strategy.  It’s not unusual to meander down the street and get bumped, given a little shove, have a fellow walker squeeze in front of you or a potential  passerby might just stop and let you go around them.  Several times when bumping into someone I said “excuse me” or “sorry”.  They looked at me annoyingly, like having to turn their attention in my direction to hear an apology took too much time out of the journey to their next destination.  Walking whether going to/from work, doing work, going to breakfast/lunch/dinner or shopping (especially shopping) is a contact sport here.  You save your “excuse mes” for when you really cream somebody. I mentioned meandering which is a little dangerous, like going 64 in a 65 mph speed zone on a busy highway where those vehicles passing you frustratingly honk, cut in front or offer a stink eye in your direction. You’re really just a traffic hazard to them.  So when entering a sidewalk, it requires moving up to speed of those around you, then merging  into the human traffic. 

A little bit about the markets. They have markets for everything....everything. Food, women’s underwear, toasters, shoes, food, ties, medicines, clothes, karaoke mics, live chickens/fish/snakes/etc. But the food is the most unusual of all.  The caption for the picture to the left is “These piggies definitely went to Market.”

Hello Hong Kong

Wow. This place is busy.  You’ve heard of the “New York Minute”?Here, it’s the Hong Kong Second. They go fast and big here.  Bus drivers sling their two tiered transports around like they’re on a go-kart course.  Attempting to get up from the seat, grab the suitcase and head for the door is a dubious task until the bus actually stops, then you run for the door.  None of the drivers seem too concerned about pedestrians and use of their horns is...liberal.  If you are trying to squeeze the last few steps out of a crosswalk after the light turns red...best to step quickly.  

Did I mention big? According to HK Special Administration, Hong Kong has 1500 buildings identified at skyscrapers which are taller than 100 meters or 328 feet. 350 of those are taller than 150 meters or roughly 500 feet.  The tallest is the International Commerce Center, the ninth tallest building in the world, at a hair less than 1600 feet.  By my calculations that’s over a quarter of a mile high.  I wonder what how long the Starbucks line is in the morning before work? Anyway, high population density just begins to describe the amount of humans per square inch in this city.

The street food here is delicious. The fragrance of curry, hot oil, baking bread, hum bao, and others made our mouth water as we strolled down the side streets in a local market. Hong Kong is the Dim Sum Capital of the world. Bite sized treats of ambrosia, pork, fish, beef, veggies, tarot, shell fish....you name it.  All good.  

Hey all.  More later.  Catching up on some sleep before heading out on more adventures.  

Getting ready to leave the rain

Good morning all.  If you've come this far, welcome to Edventures with Moon.  I am testing out the blog, making sure that everything works.  Terry and I are getting ready to leave for our trip through Asia. First stop is Hong Kong, then on to Thailand with a 5 day stop in Beijing on the way back home.  Hope you'll join us on our travels.  I'm not the best writer in the world, that's for sure, but I enjoy it.  Cheers.  Ed