Last but not least, The Thrilla in Manila.

The fight in Manila, Philippines, in 1975 was one for the history books. On the line was the heavyweight boxing championship of the world between Joe Frazier and Muhammad Ali, the match known as the "Thrilla in Manila." This marked their third encounter, with each winning one previous bout. It was one of the most brutal boxing contests, and Ali secured victory in the 14th round when Frazier's corner threw in the towel. Unbeknownst to Frazier's corner, Ali had informed his manager, Angelo Dundee, to cut his gloves off as he felt finished and doubted his ability to continue for the 15th round. Despite this, Dundee refused, and Ali won by TKO. The Filipino people took pride in hosting such a historic World Heavyweight Championship fight in their country. Additionally, they celebrated the fact that, as neither the Frazier nor Ali camps could agree on an American referee, a Filipino was chosen to officiate the fight. They named a shopping center after the winner, Ali Mall, which still exists today in Quezon City, a suburb of Manila.

I'm not a history buff, but I'll attempt to summarize the modern history of the Philippines. It began in the late 1500s when the Spanish decided to visit the islands, then over-stayed their welcome by more than 300 years. Named after Philip II of Spain, the Philippines has a population that is over 80% Catholic due to Spanish influence. Despite adopting Catholicism, (in some sense a form of Spanish control); the Filipinos resisted Spanish rule, leading to continual unrest. Instead of leaving with their tail between their legs as losers because they couldn’t control the Filipino uprisings, in 1898, after more than a couple of hundred years, they sold the Philippines to the Americans for $20 million. The Filipinos, desiring independence, waged war against the Americans for a few years. The U.S. then offered assistance to help prepare them for independence, which was granted to the Philippines in 1946. This concludes my attempt at a historical overview and any thoughts about becoming a history buff. 

The Filipinos and Americans fought along side of each other in the Philippine Islands during World War II when the Japanese invaded the islands. We visited the Manila American  Cemetery and Memorial where the Filipinos and allied forces (primarily American) were buried. There are 17,000 marked graves with marble crosses and marble memorial walls of those who were lost but never found or identified. One would think that in this modern day of global interdependence that war would be something that would become obsolete. That would be my hope, anyway, as naïve as that may be. Seeing this cemetery reminds me of the Vietnam Memorial and the loss of so many lives is heartbreaking. Writing in this blog about wars and brutal boxing matches and some sort of human need to prove themselves as better than another is also a little mind boggling. Maybe, some day, humanity will overcome that need  

Manila American Cemetery and Memorial high on a hill in the middle of the city. 

Driving safety in Manila which may not be as dangerous as getting in the ring with a couple of heavyweight fighters is still a perilous endeavor. Driving is like one big game of chicken where 98% of the time everybody wins. However, according to Wikipedia, the city of Manila averages 301 accidents per day, most involving scooters, cars, buses, jeepneys, tricycles and vans.  As you can imagine those brave souls driving the scooters usually come out on the wrong end of these accidents. Keeping a safe driving distance between vehicles here means at lease 12 inches, really, and that might be fudging it a little bit. We rode in a newer model van from the airport to the hotel and it’s my belief that our young driver is a descendant of Richard Petty, the famous NASCAR driver. I decided after renting a scooter almost everywhere else in Asia to forego a scooter in Manila and use public transportation which can be equally as scary but safer.

Unlike other countries that are more stoic in their demeanor, Filipinos seem like they are a happy bunch. They joke and laugh and are generally upbeat. Out in the community, families are the norm. Family first is often heard here when talking with the locals. In the parks, on the street or in the malls you see parents, a couple of kids, and grandmother or father, all together enjoying whatever activity they are involved in. This is the most family oriented country we’ve visited. It’s refreshing to see. 

We are in El Nido on the island of Palawan, Philippines now. Our last stop before we head home. I took an Adanced Open Water PADI course here. Also, a NITROX course so I can use air with a higher percentage of oxygen, which allows for longer dives. The waters here are pretty clear and the environment is still unchanged and beautiful with lots of fish, coral, turtles, etc. It was a rewarding experience. Terry took a course of relaxation by the hotel pool while I was diving and passed with flying colors  

Clear waters of the South China Sea. 

My dive instructor, Win. 

The laid back Island life suits Moon and me. Cheap massages, manicures, pedicures, facials and t-shirts. I stuck to the massages and the t-shirts. We rented a scooter to get around and went into town frequently to eat and enjoy the lively nightlife. A relaxing atmosphere with plenty of time to reflect on our trip and our coming home. 

Last night in El Nido. 

I hope you have enjoyed the blog. Moon and I miss you all and are looking forward to returning home. It’s been a grand trip. 

Ed, out. 

Singapore

In the news: Our travels took us from Bangkok to Vietnam before returning for the New Year’s Extravaganza in Bangkok. Thailand allows Americans and citizens from some other countries to stay visa-free for 30 days, but extending the stay requires complex documentation. As we were on day 29, we had to leave. To manage this, travelers often do a ‘VISA run’ by exiting the country, getting their passports stamped in a nearby neighboring country like Cambodia or Laos, then returning to Thailand, granting another 30-day stay. This can be as easy as entering Laos, having you VISA stamped and walking right back over the Thai border. But our plan was to spend time a week in Vietnam, particularly on the island of Phu Quoc.

Unfortunately, I fell ill a couple of days before heading to Phu Quoc, and upon arrival, I tested positive for an illness. You know the one I speak of. I can tell you what the thread count was in the sheets, pillow cases, and comforter and how many geckos crossed the ceiling each evening but that’s about it for my experience in Vietnam. Terry spent the week repeating the Mantra, “stay away from me”. I tested negative just in time to return to Bangkok. What a trip.   

Our New Year’s night in Bangkok was surreal, spent on the 23rd floor of the Sheraton Hotel by the Chao Phraya River, where the fireworks dazzled us. A spectacular start to the new year. We said our goodbyes to  our friends Maxx, Kay and Aim and headed to Singapore. 

Singapore is a very modern high tech city state at the end of the Malay peninsula and a busy financial and maritime heavyweight. On the west side is the Strait of Malacca, which from the air looks like a busy opening day on the Mountlake Cut in Seattle, but instead of runabouts, sail boats and the occasional 60. foot yacht there are container ships, barges of every kind, cruise ships and tankers. To the south is the Strait of Singapore and to the east is the South China Sea. All in all a bustling shipping area .

Singapore boasts a diverse population - a blend of Singaporean, Indian, Malay, Chinese, and other smaller Asian groups. The official languages here encompass English, Malay, Tamil, and Chinese Mandarin, reflecting the incredible diversity. Religious diversity is also prominent, with Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, and Hinduism coexisting harmoniously. The unusual experience is walking to a predetermined place like Chinatown, but on the way you walk through Muslim town, or a Malay section of the city or other areas where there are different cultures, foods and peoples. 

Singapore, despite being the world’s second most densely populated place, surprisingly offers numerous parks and green spaces. Greenery adorns buildings, medians, malls - virtually every possible spot. 

Each country has its unique way of presenting food and Singapore is no different. For instance, Japan has huge takeout kiosks in the basements of department stores, while Thailand offers street vendors, restaurants of all sizes, and vibrant markets of every kind, day or night. Singapore’s preference is food malls. Good luck finding a place to sit because it’s always busy and there is usually one person sitting at the table warily eyeing anyone who might be thinking a of sitting down. They give you “the eye” as if to say don’t even think about sitting here. The food in Singapore reflects the fusion of all its varied citizenry. We ate at Italian, Greek, and Indian restaurants, each with their take on Asian food. Deliciously decadent. 

I didn’t take many pictures in Singapore, for some reason. It rained quite a bit, which kept things cool. Here’s a picture of Moon in a Shrine 

A raining day visiting the Singapore Art and Science Museum. 

Hope all is well with you in this new year of 2024. 

Ed out. 

  

  

  

 

Bangkok, Part 2

Bangkok, Part 2, is what I’ll call odds and ends. A hodgepodge of observations and musing and thoughts about Bangkok I couldn’t fit in Part 1 but didn’t want to leave out. 

There are markets of every description: wet markets where live eel, fish, crab, frogs, or anything else that swims, crawls, or wiggles through the water can be purchased. Flower markets are amazing with unreal amounts of variety and with a fragrance so enticing it leaves you almost lightheaded. Night markets, early morning markets, day markets and markets just for the weekends. We didn’t go this time around, but there is the Chatuchak Weekend Market. A full blown bonanza of a market that’s the largest in Thailand. It has over 15,000 stalls and 11,505 vendors according to Wikipedia. Cosmetics, antiques, electronics, pets, plants, art, clothes, food, whatever the desire, it’s here 3 different ways in 6 different colors. 

When we consider the world at large, not everyone has embraced the concept of equal pay for equal work and gender equality. A striking example I witnessed was a woman in a full burka, revealing only her eyes, holding a baby in 90-degree weather, while her husband sported slippers, shorts, a tank top, and stylish Calvin Klein sunglasses. This scenario is just one example of the inequality but there are other noted here also. Men often hold managerial positions while women are relegated to "worker bee" status, often in the tourism industry which is such a huge part of the Thailand economy these days. . 

Change will eventually come, benefiting societies that are attempting to embrace equality. However, those men accustomed to viewing women as second-class citizens might strongly resist these changes. I imagine they’ll probably throw a fit, kicking and screaming like a naughty 4 year old until those changes begin to take hold and become normalized. Bob Dylan aptly wrote, "The times, they are a-changin'."

Let's talk about shopping malls. One of the newer and most impressive ones sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, named ICONSIAM, roughly translated to ‘the icon of eternal prosperity’. You would do well to prosper mightily before you get here because they have the normal “we only let 3 guests at a time in the store” shops like your favs Giorgio, Oscar and Vera. It might sound a bit extravagant, but purchasing a New York Yankees jersey for $2495 is... well, I'm not sure how to describe it except maybe fun? Particularly if you have an American Express card with no limit. Or maybe, ridiculous, but fun would be a better way to put it as long as you can afford it. 

A waterfall of droplets fall in synch from the ceiling in different designs. One spells out ICONSIAM as it falls to the floor.

Here is ICONSIAM in all its glory. 

Anyway, the mall is stunning, boasting both extravagant shops and something for everyone. Spanning 5,650,000 square feet across 10 floors, it hosts over 700 shops and 100 restaurants. The prevailing theme in Thai shopping malls these days is to incorporate as much greenery as possible, rendering the interior of the mall gorgeous. They even feature a floating market on the main floor. Despite ICONSIAM not being the largest among the 200 malls in Bangkok, it's intriguing. It's akin to the abundance of food vendors on the streets—there's a small food stall, cart, or restaurant at every turn. You can dine at one or two tables set up right on the street or in small restaurants, some with no more than 4 or 5 tables. It puzzling how these shops survive and make a living, just as I wonder how 200 malls manage to stay in business. Despite seemingly improbable odds, they simply do. The malls are consistently bustling, and there's always someone waiting for their plate or bowl of food at the street vendors.

The following are tugboats. I must have a thing about them for as many photos that were taken of them 

If you are a tugboat fan also, knock yourself out on these work horses. 

Moon and I hope you had a wonderful time welcoming in the New Year. Our travels have exposed us to places where mutual respect among people is important and customary. I  recall Japan, where a bow, known as 'yumi,' and in Thailand, 'wei,' signifies respect and acknowledgment towards others. It's something that we might benefit from in the USA. Let's hope this coming year is filled with peace, good health, and prosperity for all of us. 

Happy New Year,

Ed and Terry.